Frequently Asked Questions


What shots does my kitten need?

Kittens should receive their first vaccination at 8 weeks of age. Vaccinations are repeated at 3-4 week intervals until the kitten is 12-16 weeks old.

The vaccinations are given to protect your cat against the following infectious diseases:
Link to Vaccination Schedule

Distemper (Panleukopenia) – a highly contagious viral disease that spreads through air or contact with infected body secretions and causes vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and can be fatal.

Upper Respiratory Disease (calicivirus, herpesvirus) – a number of highly contagious viral respiratory infections causing "cold" symptoms – sneezing, coughing, discharge from nose and eyes.

Rabies – a fatal viral infection of the central nervous system of mammals including humans. It is spread through the saliva of a rabid animal. In our area, bats and raccoons are the most common carriers of rabies. Rabies vaccinations are given at 3 months of age and are legally required in Albany County.

Feline Leukemia – a viral disease that causes immunosuppression, anemia, and tumors of any body system. It is spread through contact with infected saliva and other body fluids. Immunization against leukemia is recommended if your cat goes outdoors and has contact with other cats.

Note: There are no vaccinations that give life long protection. We recommend boosters one year after the initial vaccination and every three years thereafter.

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What shots does my puppy need?

Puppies should receive their first vaccination at 8 weeks of age. Vaccinations are repeated at 3-4 week intervals until the puppy is 12-16 weeks old.
The vaccinations are given to protect your dog against the following infectious diseases.
Link to Vaccination Schedule

Distemper – a highly contagious viral disease that spreads through air-borne secretions and causes respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurological problems.

Hepatitis – a serious viral infection of the liver and blood vessels.

Leptospirosis – a bacterial infection of the kidneys spread through contact with urine, saliva or nasal secretions. (This vaccination may or may not be used based on various risk factors.)

Parvovirus – a potentially fatal virus that causes vomiting, diarrhea and dehydration. This is a highly contagious disease of young dogs.

Rabies – a fatal viral infection of the central nervous system of mammals, including humans. It is spread through the saliva of a rabid animal. In our area, bats and raccoons are the most common carriers of rabies. Rabies vaccinations are given at 3 months of age and are legally required in Albany County.

Note: There are no vaccinations that give life long protection. We recommend boosters one year after the initial vaccination and every three years thereafter.

Kennel Cough (Bordetella) – vaccination is recommended for dogs with frequent contact with dogs from varied sources (e.g. kennels, dog shows). This vaccine can be administered as nose drops.

Lyme - A tick borne infection causing arthritis, fever and possibly kidney, heart or neurological disease. The first Lyme vaccine is given in a two shot series, two to three weeks apart. The vaccine is then administered once per year.


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Why should I have my male dog/cat neutered?

We recommend that all mixed breed pets be neutered. Purebred animals that are not being used for breeding or for show should also be neutered. Neutering a male dog or cat involves surgical removal of the testicles. The primary benefit of neutering your pet is to eliminate their ability to get a female dog or cat pregnant. There are also medical and behavioral benefits including:

- Roaming – Males will often wander off looking for or chasing after females in heat. While neutering your male pet may not completely eliminate this behavior, it will remove the hormonal urges to roam.

- Fighting/aggression – Testosterone, the male sex hormone, increases a pet's tendency to fight with other animals and show other forms of aggression. Most of the testosterone is formed in the testes, so having your pet neutered will greatly decrease circulating levels of testosterone. Unfortunately, not all aggressive behavior is due to testosterone, but neutering often helps decrease the incidence.

- Anal adenomas - Older, uncastrated male dogs often develop these tumors near the anus. These tumors are stimulated to form by testosterone.

- Prostatic disease – Older, uncastrated male dogs often develop an enlarged prostate. As the prostate enlarges, it often puts pressure on the colon and rectum, causing straining and difficulty during defecation. An enlarged prostate also predisposes dogs to develop prostatic infections. Prostatitis leads to bloody urine and difficult or painful urination.

Neutering your dog at a young age will prevent prostatic enlargement and anal adenomas. The good news is that even if your dog has already developed an enlarged prostate, neutering will cause the prostate to shrink and can prevent reoccurrence of anal adenomas.

- Feline urine spraying – Uncastrated male cats will almost always start spraying urine as they reach sexual maturity (8-10 mos. old). Neutering a male cat prior to the start of spraying behavior should keep them from developing the habit of spraying.  Neutering will not always make them stop. Unfortunately, there are other causes of feline urine spraying, but this is the easiest one to prevent.

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Why should I have my female dog/cat spayed?

We recommend that all mixed breed pets be spayed. Purebred animals that are not being used for breeding or for show should also be spayed. Spaying a female dog or cat involves the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries. The primary benefit to spaying your pet is to eliminate their ability to have puppies or kittens, and to prevent heat cycles. Other benefits include prevention or elimination of the following diseases:

- Pyometra – Infection of the uterus that can occur at any age and is often life threatening.

- Mammary (breast) cancer – spaying a dog prior to her first heat decreases her risk of cancer by 90% or more.

We recommend spaying dogs and cats at 6 months of age. However, if you have an older pet, it is still a good idea to get her spayed to prevent pyometra and other reproductive tract diseases.

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Is my pet too fat?

Obesity can increase your pet's chances of developing a number of diseases (i.e. diabetes) and can worsen others (i.e. arthritis). To determine if your pet is overweight, run your hands over their chest and abdomen. You should be able to feel each rib with only a small amount of flesh over them and there should be a recognizable waistline. If you can no longer easily feel the ribs, your pet is overweight. If you can stand back and see your pet's ribs, they are too thin.
If you need help putting your pet on a weight loss program, contact our office.

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I just found a tick on my dog/cat...What should I do?

First, make sure it is a tick and not a small growth. Wet down the fur around the tick and look close to the skin.  You should be able to see the tick's legs. Once you have positively identified the tick, it is time to remove it. Grasp the tick with tweezers, as close to the skin as possible, and gently pull backwards until it comes free of the skin. Sometimes all or part of the tick's head will remain embedded in the skin. Leave it alone! Trying to remove it will just increase irritation at the site. Your pet's immune system will take care of it. Expect a bump to be present after the bite for 7-14 days. If you are finding ticks on your pet, contact us for recommendations on tick control.

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Why does my pet have bad breath?

Chances are, if you didn't brush your teeth for years, you would have bad breath too. When food particles remain on your pet's teeth, bacteria multiply and produce odor-causing plaque and tartar. Over time, this material builds up and causes inflammation of the gums (gingivitis). The small pieces of bone which hold the teeth in the jaw are broken down, then the teeth get loose and fall out. The bacteria in the mouth are a source of infection for the rest of the body, especially the heart.

Bad breath generally indicates dental disease. Brushing your pet's teeth daily may help prevent plaque build-up, but once tartar forms or the tooth is loose, your pet needs a thorough dental cleaning under anesthesia. Small breeds dogs seem to have more problems with their teeth than large breed dogs. This may be because the smaller spaces between their teeth trap more food.

A Word on Pet Insurance

Pet insurance is a growing business and may help pet owners to be able to provide optimum medical care to their cherished friend, especially in a time of need.  However, buying pet insurance can be confusing and complicated. 

If you are interested in the benefits of pet insurance, it is important to do careful research. Make sure you clearly understand what is and is not covered, if coverage is full or partial and if a deductible must be met.  Understand what paperwork will be needed and how you will be paid.  Do your homework and get any and all information about the insurance company.  There are many unproven, upstarts that do not provide the same customer care as some of the longer standing companies.  Prioritize your insurance needs.  

In most cases, what pet owners really want and need is some sort of “major medical” coverage.  This coverage is meant to kick in during a catastrophic injury or illness, and generally won’t be in effect for minor, simple or uncomplicated medical treatment or routine care such as vaccinations, spaying/neutering and dental cleanings.  Having this type of plan allows you, the owner, to focus on the medical care at any critical moment rather than the cost of the medical care. 

The best advice for owners of new puppies, kittens or any new pet is to start a self insurance fund.  To accomplish this, you put the money that would have been spent on a pet health insurance premium into a savings account for the pet.  Most pet health insurance premiums are $50 - $70 per month, so put that money in the bank!  In a year you will have $600 to $840 to draw on for any unexpected pet medical bills that may arise.  In two years you will have $1,200 – $1,680!  The down side of this plan is there is no money available right away and you have to be disciplined to pay yourself!  If you are starting out with a new pet, plan on starting your fund by matching the initial cost of the pet with a contribution to the self insured fund.  This overcomes the initial availability problem.  The benefits of this plan are that you cannot be turned down by an outside insurance company, you are in control of when and where the money is spent, and, in the end, the money is still yours. 

So be ready. Get “major medical” coverage or start and stick with a self insurance plan.  Your pet will thank you and you too will be thankful that you planned ahead.   

How To Catch Urine from a DOG

Get a clean container (old Tupperware, paper cup, pie plate, etc).  Make sure the container is rinsed thoroughly of soap residue, and dried.  Put your dog on a short leash (NOT the retractable kind).  Take the dog for a walk.  Be prepared for how your dog urinates.  Most females will squat and you need to get your catch container underneath her.  Most males will lift a leg and you will have to catch from the stream.

Put a lid on the container or put the container or liquid in a sealed Ziploc bag.  Sufficient sample sizes are from about a teaspoon to a tablespoon in volume.  Fresh samples yield the most reliable results, so please get the sample to the animal hospital within 2 hours and protect from heat or sunlight.

 

How To Catch Urine from a CAT

Multiple methods for collecting urine from a cat will be reviewed here.  The most consistent method involves leaving the cat in the animal hospital for 8-24 hours to catch urine.

If the cat is misurinating on hard surfaces (bathtub, tile floor), a new misurination can be collected with a Speci-Porter that you have gotten from us.  This involves using the sterile Speci-Porter sponge to soak up the urine and returning it to us.  A common problem involves not having enough urine to sufficiently wet the Speci-Porter sponge.

Alternatively, if the cat is misurinating on the same surface (bed, pile of laundry, bathtub), you can try putting plastic wrap in that location and hoping the cat leaves enough urine on the plastic wrap that you can carefully fold up the plastic wrap and bring us a sample of about a teaspoon in volume.

In multiple cat households it becomes important to isolate cats long enough to be sure who is the misurinator.  This will mean limiting one cat to a bathroom, laundry room, or other space long enough to prove he is the culprit or clear him.  The isolation space is preferably a small room with hard floors, no rugs, and food, water and a litter provided.  Also, report the type of misurination.  Is it a puddle on the floor, drips of urine outside the box, or urine sprayed on a wall and dripping down to the floor.

While the cat is in isolation, it is a good time to catch a urine sample.  In a thoroughly cleaned litter box, put in foam packing peanuts or plastic, non-absorbent litter, or nothing.  When the cat urinates in the box, the urine sample can be poured into a Ziploc or other container.  (Throw away the foam or plastic litter.)  If the cat refuses to use the abnormal litter and urinates on a hard surface, you may use the previously described Speci-Porter technique.

 

Kennel Cough 

Kennel cough is a general term for an infectious cough of dogs.  The infecting agent can be bacterial, as in Bordatella infections, or viral, as in Adenovirus  and Parainfluenza infections. A dog with kennel cough has a harsh, honking, hard, and often persistant cough that may be associated with gagging up phlegm or even vomiting. Most cases of kennel cough are very mild and many do not require treatment. However, kennel cough can cause significant illness , hospitalization or even death especially in very young puppies, geriatric pets, or dogs with preexisting cardiopulmonary disease such as heart murmurs, chronic bronchitis, COPD, or congestive heart failure. 

Boarding facilities, groomers and dog trainers frequently request or require that dogs attending their facilities be vaccinated against Kennel Cough. This is a wise and reasonable request that has significantly cut down on the transmission of this annoying cough at places where dogs gather.

Kennel Cough vaccines can be given as an injection or nose drops.  Generally it needs to be repeated annually, although in some high exposure situations it may be given more frequently. Dogs with preexisting cardiopulmonary disease and dogs with multiple exposures to other dogs are the most important to get vaccinated.  The vaccine is very helpful from a population standpoint but can fail to protect individuals in certain situations on occasion. These failures may be the result of poor timing of the vaccination, a strain of infection passing around that is not covered by the vaccine or immune system problems of the individual. 

Kennel Cough is not the same as Canine Influenza or CIRD, which are much rarer, but potentially much more serious causes of cough or cold symptoms in dogs.

Xylitol and Chocolate

Xylitol is a sugar-free sweetener found in many sugarless gums and candies and is TOXIC to dogs.     Xylitol has also been found in mouthwashes, chewable vitamins, children's medication, over-the-counter herabal remedies, and food products, particularly those aimed for diabetics. 


Chocolate contains theobromine, which is toxic to dogs in sufficient quantities.

A toxic dose is as follows:
One ounce per pound of body weight for milk chocolate
One ounce per three pounds of body weight for baker's chocolate
For example, 2 oz. of baker's chocolate can cause great risk to a 15 lb. dog, yet 2 oz. of milk chocolate usually will only cause digestive problems.

THE DARKER THE CHOCOLATE THE MORE DANGEROUS IT IS TO YOUR DOG!!

Please keep these products out of your pet's reach!

Microchipping
Your Pet


Click above to read more about microchip implants for your pet, which help to reunite you with your pet in case of disappearance

Exercising Your Pet

Click HERE for more information
about the type of exercise your pets should be getting.

About Worms--Digestive Types

What are worms? YUCK! How does my pet get them? Can I get them too?! GROSS!

Some basic knowledge goes a long way in protecting you and your pets from the hundreds of parasites (worms) your pet may potentially get.  Luckily, there are only a few common types to be concerned about and most are easily treated. 

Keep in mind puppies and kittens are the most common victims of worms. Hunting animals and animals that eat unknown, outdoor, uncooked foods are also at risk. Animals recently adopted, particularly those that travel to us from warmer climates, are also more likely to be harboring parasites.  Fleas are also a source of transmission of worms to your pet. And just walking on ground contaminated by the stool of a parasitized animal may  potentially transmit parasites to your pet. 

Parasitized pets my have poor haircoats, diarrhea with or without blood, gas, weight loss or poor weight gain or may appear perfectly healthy! Diagnosis of parasites is generally based on the fecal floatation (stool check). Please understand, one negative stool sample does not guarantee a pet that is totally free of parasites!  Pets are generally infected with worms from their dam (mother), prey sources or previously infected grass/soil.  People get worms from their pet by fecal-oral contact (accidentally getting pet stool on your hand and bringing your hand to your mouth) but also may get certain types of worms through infected grass/soil. 

To keep your human family safe:

Always practice good hygiene- wash your hands before eating and after petting or bathing your pet, working outside, cleaning the litter box or taking out the garbage. Teach your children to do the same.

Keep your lawn free of pet stool.  Pick up droppings as soon as possible, ideally in less than 24 hours.

Check new pets for parasites and treat appropriately, then take preventative measures and strategically deworm your pets. 

Use appropriate flea prevention products for your pet.

Clean all indoor accidents by wearing gloves, disposing of the stool appropriately (garbage or sewer), then disinfecting the area. 

To keep your pet family safe:

Check new pets for parasites and treat appropriately, then take preventative measures and strategically deworm you pets.

Use appropriate flea prevention products for you pet.

Keep your lawn free of pet stool.  Pick up droppings as soon as possible, ideally in less than 24 hours.

Strategic deworming involves the use of Heartworm preventions (like Heartgard) for  dogs and periodic deworming of outdoor, hunting cats. Strategic deworming is used to keep parasite loads low to nonexistent in at risk animals. 

 Most Common Digestive System Parasites: 

Roundworms (Ascarids) – very common in puppies and kittens, typical “sand box” worm 

Tapeworms – very common in hunting animals or animals exposed to fleas 

Whipworms – less common but causes a vile, sustained diarrhea and can contaminate soils for years 

Hookworms – less common but can cause serious disease and can cause exposure through skin contact with ground

 

Pets Most Likely To Need Emergency or Costly Care

Dogs over 55 lbs. 
Dogs that eat anything and everything 
Outdoor/free roaming pets


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